Tags:I found a nice description in pictures of how to flash your Nintendo DS Lite using FlashMe v7. That tutorial also has a link to a video guide. I will update when I flash my DS Lite — since you can restore the original firmware by reflashing, I can’t see why not to.
Look after the jump to read about the advantages and dangers of flashing.
According to Something Awful Forums goon kalibar in his R4DS flashcart thread in SA-Mart, these are the benefits of flashing (with my commentary in quotes):
FlashMe protects you from bricking your DS if you’re somehow duped into running the DS bricker virus. While not terribly common, the virus is still in circulation and if you’re downloading shady-ass unsigned code for your DS you’re probably downloading from some shady-ass places. (The bricker was a proof-of-concept, but the point is still valid). It’s like having antivirus software that’s always in place and doesn’t use a single CPU cycle.
Since playing backups, have you missed Download Play? I did, too. The only foolproof way for Download Play to work when the host is running a backup is for both DS’s involved to be flashed. (Compatibility drops if only one or neither DS is flashed, especially between a Slot-1 flashcard and Slot-2 flashcard.)
Still easier/cheaper than a slot-1 flashcart if all you want to buy is a G6/M3 for 100% GBA backup compatibility on top of your DS cake. (Of course, if you have an R4, it works as a PassMe so you can use Slot 2 flashcards anyway, i.e. if you want a G6 Lite for GBA compatibility.)
Gets rid of the Health & Safety screen. (Of course, the R4 skips it, but it’s still an annoying few seconds.)
FlashMe is fully reversible on the DS and the DS Lite such as in the event that it somehow conflicts with DS to Wii connectivity, although many predict that it won’t be an issue.
However, this is some danger involved in flashing a DS Lite. Goon inpheaux lies it down like this:
Look at these two images: Back of the DS Lite battery cover and Diagram of what to short and what NOT to short
The danger, as I understand it, comes from when you put something conductive in the hole and end up bridging SL1 and the round edge of f1-1. To resolve this, you just have to make sure whatever you’re bridging with is only conductive at the tip. I did mine with an unbent paperclip wrapped in tinfoil that then had its sides wrapped in tape.
February 25, 2007 | Filed Under How to
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